Bigly Cioppino

Prep
25m
Cook
35m
Total
60m
Bigly says
Hand on heart. Cioppino. CIOPPINO. The greatest seafood stew on planet Earth, and the planet Earth is mostly OCEAN, so I think we know what we're working with here. Invented by Italian fishermen in San Francisco out of whatever was left in the boat at the end of the day. Hall-of-Fame improvisation. Genuinely beautiful.
An old Italian woman cornered me once on a sidewalk in North Beach — I was minding my own business, eating a focaccia — and she grabbed my sleeve and made me promise to do the cioppino HER way. Tomato paste first. Fennel, not just onion. Wine that you would actually drink, not the dusty bottle in the back of the cabinet. The neighbor who taught HER lived to be 102. Could be a coincidence. Probably not. She told me her grandmother's grandmother served this off a fishing boat and the men on the dock cried into their bowls. She was a tough woman. Tough as the shells on the clams. I do not argue with women like that. Nobody should.
The secret is the broth. The BROTH. You build it slow. You don't just crack a can of tomatoes and call it a day. Sweat the onions and fennel until they're soft and sweet. Bloom the garlic. Stir in the tomato paste and let it darken. Add the wine. REDUCE. THAT is when the broth becomes a broth and not a soup. And then — and this is the part everyone gets wrong, the part that separates the masters from the rest — the seafood goes in at the END. Five minutes. Six max. Overcook the seafood and you've made FISH RUBBER, and fish rubber is not a thing anyone wants on a Tuesday. Or any day. Ever.
Ingredients
- 1/4 cupolive oil
- 1 largeyellow onion, diced
- 1 mediumfennel bulb, diced(save the fronds for garnish)
- 6 clovesgarlic, minced
- 1/2 tspred pepper flakes
- 3 tbsptomato paste
- 1.5 cupsdry white wine(something you would drink, not the dusty bottle in the back of the cabinet)
- 1 (28 oz) cancanned crushed tomatoes
- 3 cupsseafood stock or clam juice
- 2bay leaves
- 1 tspdried oregano
- 1.5 tspkosher salt
- 1 tspblack pepper
- 1 lblittleneck clams, scrubbed
- 1 lbmussels, debearded and scrubbed
- 1 lblarge shrimp, peeled and deveined
- 1 lbfirm white fish (cod, halibut, or sea bass), cut into 2-inch pieces
- 1/3 cupfresh parsley, chopped
- 1/4 cupfresh basil, torn
- 1lemon, cut into wedges (for serving)
- 1 loafcrusty sourdough bread (for serving)(the cioppino was invented in San Francisco, the bread is mandatory)
Steps
- 1
Heat the olive oil in a large heavy pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onion and fennel and cook 8-10 minutes until softened and translucent.
- 2
Add the garlic and red pepper flakes. Cook 1 minute until fragrant.
- 3
Stir in the tomato paste and cook 2 minutes, until it darkens slightly.
- 4
Pour in the white wine and scrape up any browned bits. Simmer 4-5 minutes until the wine has reduced by half.
- 5
Add the crushed tomatoes, seafood stock, bay leaves, oregano, salt, and pepper. Bring to a simmer and cook uncovered for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the broth thickens slightly.
- 6
Taste the broth and adjust salt. Discard the bay leaves.
- 7
Add the clams to the pot, cover, and cook 3 minutes.
- 8
Add the mussels, cover, and cook another 2 minutes.
- 9
Add the shrimp and fish on top in a single layer. Cover and cook 4-5 more minutes, until the clams and mussels have opened, the shrimp are pink, and the fish flakes easily. Discard any shellfish that did not open.
- 10
Ladle into wide bowls, making sure each bowl gets some of each seafood. Top generously with parsley and basil. Serve with lemon wedges and thick slices of toasted sourdough.
One more thing
Put this in front of your family and they will go quiet. Not the bad quiet. The good quiet. The reverent quiet. The quiet of people who suddenly realize that the person who made dinner is a person of substance. A person of standards. The bread soaks up the broth. The broth was the point all along. The seafood was the setup. And there you have it.

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Substitutions, what to serve it with, why other chefs are wrong about it. He's got opinions.
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