Huge Falafel

Prep
20m
Cook
15m
Total
35m
Bigly says
Sit down for this one. We're doing falafel and I need you focused, eyes forward, phone in the drawer — because most falafel walking around out there is a TRAGEDY. Dry. Crumbly. A sad little hockey puck rolled out of a box that's been sitting on a grocery store shelf since the BRONZE AGE. I won't name names. I don't have to. You know who you are.
My falafel? HUGE. Crispy on the outside, fluffy on the inside, green in the middle like a beautiful little meadow of herbs and chickpeas. An old woman cornered me in a market in Jaffa once — tiny woman, hands like steel cables — and made me promise to do it her way. She tasted mine, she nodded once, and she walked off. That's the highest compliment a falafel will ever receive in this lifetime, trust me.
The secret is DRIED chickpeas. Not canned. NEVER canned. Canned chickpeas in falafel is a CRIME. It's a felony in seven countries and it should be in more. You soak the dried chickpeas overnight, you do NOT cook them, you grind them raw, and that — THAT — is how you get the texture. Most chefs are afraid to do this. They want shortcuts. They tell their readers 'use a can, it's faster' and then the falafel falls apart in the oil like a sad little sandcastle. Embarrassing. If your chef tells you otherwise, find a new chef. We're doing it the right way. The huge way. The Bigly way. Believe me.
Ingredients
- 1 cupdried chickpeas(DRIED. Never canned. This is non-negotiable.)
- 1/2 mediumyellow onion, roughly chopped
- 4garlic cloves
- 1 cupfresh parsley, packed
- 1/2 cupfresh cilantro, packed
- 1.5 tspground cumin
- 1 tspground coriander
- 1.25 tspkosher salt
- 1/2 tspblack pepper
- 1/4 tspcayenne pepper(more if you're brave)
- 2 tbspall-purpose flour
- 1 tspbaking powder
- 3 cupsneutral oil for frying
- 1/2 cuptahini sauce (for serving)
- 4warm pita bread (for serving)
- 1 lemonlemon wedges (for serving)
Steps
- 1
The night before, place dried chickpeas in a large bowl and cover with 4 inches of cold water. Soak 18-24 hours. They should triple in size.
- 2
Drain the chickpeas thoroughly and pat very dry with a clean kitchen towel. Excess water is the enemy of crispy falafel.
- 3
Add chickpeas, onion, garlic, parsley, cilantro, cumin, coriander, salt, pepper, and cayenne to a food processor. Pulse until the mixture resembles coarse sand — not a paste. You should still see flecks of green and chickpea texture.
- 4
Transfer to a bowl. Stir in flour and baking powder. Cover and refrigerate at least 30 minutes (this firms up the mixture and helps it hold together).
- 5
Scoop heaping tablespoons of the mixture and shape into compact balls or small patties. Squeeze firmly so they hold together.
- 6
Heat oil in a deep heavy pot to 350°F (175°C). Use a thermometer — guessing the temperature is how you get greasy falafel.
- 7
Fry the falafel in batches of 5-6 for about 3-4 minutes per batch, turning once, until deep golden brown all over. Don't crowd the pot or the temperature will crash.
- 8
Transfer with a slotted spoon to a paper towel-lined plate. Season immediately with a pinch of salt.
- 9
Serve hot, stuffed into warm pita with tahini sauce, salad, and a squeeze of lemon.
One more thing
And there you have it. Huge falafel. The greatest falafel in the history of falafel — and there's been a LOT of falafel, the Phoenicians had it, the Mesopotamians had a version, this stuff is older than France, older than Italy, older than time itself — and you just made some that beats every single street vendor, every single chain, every single sad little frozen box in the freezer aisle. Serve it with real tahini, not the watery stuff. Stuff it in a warm pita. Add a little pickled turnip if you can find it, those bright pink ones, beautiful, looks like a sunset. Your family will eat them all and demand more. Make a double batch. Always make a double batch. Tremendous.

★ QUESTIONS ABOUT THIS ONE? ★
Ask Bigly about Huge Falafel.
Substitutions, what to serve it with, why other chefs are wrong about it. He's got opinions.
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