VOL. I · NO. IEST. 2026

Huge Hot and Sour Soup

Huge Hot and Sour Soup

Prep

15m

Cook

20m

Total

35m

Bigly says

We need to talk about hot and sour soup. The greatest hot and sour soup in the history of hot and sour soup — and there's been a LOT of hot and sour soup, probably more bowls of this soup served on Earth than any other soup in the entire soup category, the Ming Dynasty had it, the Song Dynasty had it, you can look it up, I've had people look it up, they came back and they said 'Bigly, you were right, as usual' and I said 'I know.'

Most hot and sour soup, the soup you get at the sad little place by the gas station, is one of two things. It's HOT and not sour. Or it's SOUR and not hot. It's never both. It's never balanced. A total disaster. Tough guys, with the tears in the eyes, they order this soup, they take one sip, they push the bowl away, and they weep. Real tears. Salty tears. Which is ironic because the soup wasn't even salty enough either, which is a THIRD failure on top of the other two. Three failures in one bowl. Embarrassing.

My soup — Bigly's soup — is hot AND sour. Both. At the same time. Like the name says. There's an old woman in Flushing, runs a counter, six stools, no menu, name is Mrs. Chen — and she made me promise, she pointed a finger at me, she said 'white pepper, not black,' and I have honored that promise every day since. White pepper for heat. Black vinegar for sour. Chinkiang, the dark stuff, the real stuff — balsamic in hot and sour soup is a crime against vinegar, against soup, against Mrs. Chen. Believe me. It's not even close. It's a slaughter.

Ingredients

  • 6 cupschicken stock(low sodium, control your own salt)
  • 1/4 cupdried wood ear mushrooms(rehydrate in warm water 20 min)
  • 4 ozshiitake mushrooms, sliced
  • 1/2 cupbamboo shoots, julienned
  • 8 ozfirm tofu, cut into matchsticks
  • 4 ozboneless pork loin, julienned(optional but it's better with it, it just is)
  • 3 tbspsoy sauce
  • 1/4 cupChinese black vinegar (Chinkiang)(the SOUR, not balsamic, never balsamic)
  • 1.5 tspwhite pepper, ground(the HEAT, white not black, this matters)
  • 2 tspsesame oil, toasted
  • 3 tbspcornstarch
  • 1/4 cupcold water
  • 2large eggs, beaten
  • 3scallions, sliced thin
  • to tastekosher salt

Steps

  1. 1

    Drain the rehydrated wood ear mushrooms, trim any tough stems, and slice thin.

  2. 2

    Bring the chicken stock to a simmer in a large pot over medium-high heat.

  3. 3

    Add pork (if using), wood ear mushrooms, shiitake mushrooms, and bamboo shoots. Simmer 5 minutes until pork is cooked through.

  4. 4

    Add tofu, soy sauce, black vinegar, and white pepper. Simmer another 3 minutes to let the flavors meld.

  5. 5

    Whisk cornstarch and cold water in a small bowl until smooth. Slowly stir the slurry into the simmering soup. The soup will thicken to a silky consistency in about 1 minute.

  6. 6

    Reduce heat to low. With the soup at a bare simmer, slowly drizzle the beaten eggs in a thin stream while stirring the soup in one direction with a chopstick or fork to form delicate ribbons.

  7. 7

    Remove from heat. Stir in sesame oil. Taste and adjust salt, vinegar, or pepper as needed.

  8. 8

    Ladle into bowls and top with sliced scallions. Serve immediately.

One more thing

This is the soup. The one. The bowl that ends the search. You make this once and you will never order takeout hot and sour soup again because the takeout version — and I've had it, I've had ALL of it, I've eaten more takeout containers than any single human being on Earth — the takeout version is sad watery brown nonsense with one piece of tofu and a sense of regret. This is the real thing. This is the soup the soup is supposed to be. Now go eat.

★ QUESTIONS ABOUT THIS ONE? ★

Ask Bigly about Huge Hot and Sour Soup.

Substitutions, what to serve it with, why other chefs are wrong about it. He's got opinions.

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