The Best Flan

Prep
15m
Cook
60m
Total
75m
Bigly says
Folks. FOLKS. We need to talk about flan. The BEST flan, the greatest flan in the history of flan, and there's been a LOT of flan — the Spanish had it, the Romans had a version that was basically flan with a different name, food historians agree on this, I had a guy with a PhD walk me through it for ninety minutes at a wedding and it was worth every minute — and every single one of those flans gets DEMOLISHED by the flan I'm about to show you. It's a slaughter. A custard slaughter. Not even close.
Most flan at restaurants is sad. SAD flan. Rubbery little hockey pucks sitting in a sour brown puddle, a total disaster, a disgrace to custard. I've had flan at very fancy restaurants — TREMENDOUS restaurants, the kind with cloth napkins folded into swans, which is INSANE by the way, why is my napkin a swan, just give me a napkin so I can wipe my face — and even those flans were a betrayal. A custard betrayal. Big strong men come up to me, men who never cry, and they say, Bigly, I can't eat flan anymore, the restaurants have ruined me. And I tell them, friend, you haven't had MY flan yet. Then they have it. Then they cry. Every time.
The secret — and I'm giving this to you for free, no popup, no subscribe-to-my-flan-newsletter banner, no cookie wall asking if you'd like to share your custard preferences with 47 advertising partners, which is something the OTHER sites actually do, look it up — is patience with the caramel and a water bath. A bain-marie. Fancy French name, simple idea. Most so-called chefs skip the water bath because they're in a hurry, and the result is flan that bakes dry and scrambles into eggs in a hat. Not here. Not in this kitchen. We do this RIGHT.
Ingredients
- 1 cupgranulated sugar (for caramel)
- 1/4 cupwater
- 1 1/2 cupswhole milk
- 1 (14 oz) cansweetened condensed milk(the dented can at the back is fine, sugar doesn't dent)
- 1 (12 oz) canevaporated milk
- 4large eggs
- 2large egg yolks(save the whites for an omelette tomorrow, waste nothing)
- 1 tbspvanilla extract
- 1/4 tspkosher salt
Steps
- 1
Preheat the oven to 325°F. Set a 9-inch round cake pan or eight 6-oz ramekins on the counter and a kettle of water on to boil.
- 2
Combine the sugar and water in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Swirl the pan occasionally — do not stir — until the sugar dissolves and turns a deep amber, about 8-10 minutes.
- 3
Immediately pour the caramel into the cake pan (or divide among ramekins) and tilt to coat the bottom evenly. Set aside; the caramel will harden as it cools.
- 4
In a large bowl, whisk the whole milk, condensed milk, evaporated milk, eggs, yolks, vanilla, and salt until smooth. Do not overbeat — you don't want foam.
- 5
Strain the custard through a fine-mesh sieve into the prepared pan over the hardened caramel. Tap the pan gently to release any bubbles.
- 6
Set the pan inside a larger roasting pan. Place on the oven rack and carefully pour the boiling water into the roasting pan until it reaches halfway up the sides of the flan pan.
- 7
Bake 55-65 minutes (or 40-45 for ramekins), until the edges are set but the center still jiggles slightly when nudged.
- 8
Remove the flan from the water bath and cool to room temperature, about 1 hour. Cover and refrigerate at least 4 hours, preferably overnight.
- 9
To serve, run a thin knife around the edge. Place a rimmed serving plate on top, hold tight, and invert. Lift the pan away — the caramel will pool around the flan.
One more thing
That's flan. That's REAL flan. Silky, jiggly, amber sauce running everywhere — the kind of dessert that ends a dinner and makes people forget their own names for a second. They put down their phones. They look at the plate. They look at you. They say, where did you get this. And you tell them. Or you don't. I wouldn't. I'd be mysterious about it. Mysterious works. The combover helps. Either way, the flan speaks for itself. The flan always speaks for itself. Save me a piece.

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Ask Bigly about The Best Flan.
Substitutions, what to serve it with, why other chefs are wrong about it. He's got opinions.
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