VOL. I · NO. IEST. 2026

The Best Lo Mein

The Best Lo Mein

Prep

15m

Cook

10m

Total

25m

Bigly says

Sit down for this one. The lo mein situation in this country is a DISASTER. You order lo mein from one of these places, one of these sad little takeout joints with the menu from 1987, and what shows up at your door? A wet, greasy brick of beige noodles in a styrofoam box. A BRICK. You could throw it through a window. You could build a small house with it. That's not lo mein. That's a federal crime against noodles. Wet sadness on a plate.

Real lo mein — and I've had real lo mein, probably more lo mein than anyone in recorded history, I've eaten this in three countries you've never heard of and twice on the way back — real lo mein has SPRING. Real lo mein has bounce. The noodles are slick, glossy, every strand individually coated in sauce, the vegetables are crisp, BARELY crisp, just at the edge of done, and the whole thing comes together in less time than it takes to argue with the takeout app about a delivery fee. I had a guy with a PhD explain the noodle chemistry to me. Took him 90 minutes. Worth it.

And the secret — I'm giving this to you free, no popup, no cookie banner asking if you want to share your DNA with 200 advertising partners, which by the way is the most insane thing the internet ever produced, who allowed this — the secret is two things. High heat. And SAUCE FIRST. You build the sauce in a little bowl before the wok ever gets hot. You don't improvise. You don't pour soy sauce out of the bottle 'to taste' like some kind of jazz musician. You measure. You whisk. You're READY. When the wok is screaming, you don't have time to think. You only have time to dump. End of discussion.

Ingredients

  • 1 lbfresh lo mein noodles(or 12 oz dried egg noodles if fresh aren't around)
  • 1 lbboneless skinless chicken thighs, sliced thin
  • 1/4 cuplow-sodium soy sauce
  • 3 tbspoyster sauce(the magic, do not skip)
  • 1 tbspdark soy sauce(for color and depth)
  • 2 tsptoasted sesame oil
  • 1 tspgranulated sugar
  • 1 tspcornstarch
  • 3 tbsp, dividedneutral oil (peanut or vegetable)
  • 4 clovesgarlic, minced
  • 1 tbspfresh ginger, grated
  • 4 ozshiitake mushrooms, sliced
  • 2 cupsnapa cabbage, shredded
  • 1 cupcarrots, julienned
  • 1 cupbean sprouts
  • 4scallions, cut into 2-inch pieces
  • 1/4 tspwhite pepper

Steps

  1. 1

    Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Cook the noodles 1 minute less than package directions. Drain, rinse under cold water, toss with 1 tsp sesame oil to prevent sticking, and set aside.

  2. 2

    In a small bowl, whisk together soy sauce, oyster sauce, dark soy sauce, remaining sesame oil, sugar, cornstarch, and 2 tbsp water. This is your sauce — have it ready next to the stove.

  3. 3

    Heat a wok or large skillet over high heat until smoking. Add 1 tbsp oil and swirl. Add the chicken in a single layer and sear undisturbed for 1 minute, then stir-fry until just cooked through, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a plate.

  4. 4

    Add the remaining 2 tbsp oil to the wok. Add garlic and ginger and stir-fry for 15 seconds until fragrant.

  5. 5

    Add mushrooms and carrots. Stir-fry 1-2 minutes until they start to soften.

  6. 6

    Add cabbage and bean sprouts. Stir-fry 1 minute — the vegetables should still have crunch.

  7. 7

    Return the chicken to the wok along with the cooked noodles. Pour the sauce over everything.

  8. 8

    Toss continuously for 1-2 minutes using tongs or two spatulas, until every strand is glossy and coated. Add scallions and white pepper. Toss once more.

  9. 9

    Serve immediately, straight from the wok to bowls.

One more thing

That's it. That's the whole thing. Twenty-five minutes start to finish, and you've got lo mein that puts every takeout joint in a six-block radius out of business. They should be NERVOUS. They should be sweating. Because you've got the noodles now, you've got the technique, and you're never going to pay nineteen dollars for a soggy beige brick again. People will ask where you ordered from. You'll tell them you made it. They won't believe you. They'll demand proof. Show them the wok. Show them the empty bowl. The empty bowl is the proof. The empty bowl always wins. Tell your friends.

★ QUESTIONS ABOUT THIS ONE? ★

Ask Bigly about The Best Lo Mein.

Substitutions, what to serve it with, why other chefs are wrong about it. He's got opinions.

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