The Greatest Turkey Tetrazzini

Prep
25m
Cook
35m
Total
60m
Bigly says
Sit down for this one. We need to talk about turkey tetrazzini. The GREATEST turkey tetrazzini in the history of turkey tetrazzini — and many people don't know this, very few people, but this dish was invented in the early 1900s and named for Luisa Tetrazzini, an OPERA SINGER, an Italian opera singer with a voice you could hear from three counties away, very famous in her day, and they named a CASSEROLE after her. A casserole. That's how serious this dish is. Nobody knows turkey tetrazzini better than me. Nobody. And almost all the turkey tetrazzini being served in this country right now is a sad, gluey, beige tragedy.
Why is it sad? Because people make it with cream of mushroom soup from a can. A CAN. They open a can, they dump it in a casserole dish, they top it with crushed potato chips, and they call it dinner. That is not a dinner. That is an INSULT to Luisa. Somewhere out there her ghost is haunting a midwestern church basement and weeping into a lukewarm Pyrex. Embarrassing. A disgrace to the dish. A crime against pasta. The cream-of-mushroom can has been getting away with this for fifty years and nobody has STOPPED them. Until now.
The Bigly way: we make a real béchamel. A velvety sauce with butter, flour, milk, and stock. We sauté actual mushrooms — patient, undisturbed, until they are deeply browned and concentrated and the kitchen smells like an Italian restaurant in November. We use REAL parmesan, the kind in a wedge, you grate it yourself. The green can is a CRIME. The green can is dust from a vacuum cleaner with cheese flavoring. I'm not even going to engage with the green can. And we top the whole operation with buttered breadcrumbs that go golden brown and crunchy in the oven, the way Luisa intended, the way every great casserole has always demanded. This is the way. The only way. End of discussion.
Ingredients
- 4 cupscooked turkey, shredded or diced(leftovers are perfect, white and dark meat)
- 12 ozspaghetti or linguine(broken in half before boiling)
- 1 lbcremini mushrooms, sliced
- 8 tbspunsalted butter, divided
- 1 mediumyellow onion, finely chopped
- 3 clovesgarlic, minced
- 1/4 cupall-purpose flour
- 2.5 cupswhole milk, warmed
- 1.5 cupschicken or turkey stock, warmed
- 1/4 cupdry white wine or dry sherry(sherry is the classic move, sherry wins)
- 1.5 cupsParmigiano-Reggiano, freshly grated, divided(from a wedge, never the green can, do not even look at the green can)
- 1 tbspfresh thyme leaves
- 1.5 tsp, plus more to tastekosher salt
- 3/4 tspblack pepper
- 1/4 tspfreshly grated nutmeg
- 1 cupfrozen peas
- 1/4 cup, dividedfresh parsley, chopped
- 1 cuppanko breadcrumbs
Steps
- 1
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Butter a 9x13 baking dish.
- 2
Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil. Cook the pasta 2 minutes shy of al dente per the package. Drain and toss with a drizzle of olive oil to prevent sticking. Set aside.
- 3
In a large skillet, melt 2 tbsp of the butter over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms in a single layer and let them sit untouched for 3-4 minutes to brown. Stir, season with a pinch of salt, and continue cooking until deeply golden and the moisture has evaporated, about 8 minutes total. Transfer to a bowl.
- 4
Reduce heat to medium. Add 2 more tbsp butter to the same skillet. Add the chopped onion and cook 4-5 minutes until soft. Add the garlic and thyme and cook 1 more minute. Pour in the wine or sherry and simmer until almost evaporated, about 2 minutes. Scrape into the bowl with the mushrooms.
- 5
Make the béchamel: in a large saucepan, melt the remaining 4 tbsp butter over medium heat. Whisk in the flour and cook, whisking constantly, for 90 seconds — it should foam and turn pale gold, not brown.
- 6
Slowly pour in the warm milk in a steady stream, whisking constantly to prevent lumps. Then whisk in the warm stock. Continue whisking and bring to a low simmer until thickened enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 5-7 minutes.
- 7
Remove from heat. Whisk in 1 cup of the parmesan, the nutmeg, kosher salt, and black pepper. Taste and adjust seasoning — it should be assertively flavored because the pasta will dilute it.
- 8
In a very large bowl, combine the cooked pasta, turkey, mushroom-onion mixture, peas, half the parsley, and the béchamel. Toss thoroughly until everything is evenly coated.
- 9
Transfer to the prepared baking dish and spread evenly.
- 10
In a small bowl, melt 1 tbsp more butter (or use olive oil) and toss with the panko and the remaining 1/2 cup parmesan. Sprinkle this evenly over the casserole.
- 11
Bake 25-30 minutes, until bubbling at the edges and the topping is deeply golden brown. If the top needs more color, run it under the broiler for 1-2 minutes — watch it closely.
- 12
Let rest 10 minutes before serving. Sprinkle with the remaining parsley.
One more thing
This is what you make the week after Thanksgiving when you have a refrigerator full of turkey and a family who is one more turkey sandwich away from a mutiny. You pull this golden, bubbling, parmesan-crowned beauty out of the oven, you set it on the table, and suddenly the leftovers are not leftovers anymore — they are the GREATEST dinner of the week. Better than the original Thanksgiving meal. I'll say it. I am SAYING it. The tetrazzini wins. Luisa would be proud. The opera world would be proud. And the cans of cream-of-mushroom soup at the grocery store will weep, because they know — they KNOW — they were not invited to this party. That's the recipe.

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