VOL. I · NO. IEST. 2026

Tremendous Pho

Tremendous Pho

Prep

20m

Cook

100m

Total

120m

Bigly says

Pay attention. This one is important. Pho is the greatest soup in the history of soups — and there have been many soups, the Vietnamese have been perfecting this one for over a hundred years, a HUNDRED YEARS of dedicated soup work, that's commitment, the kind of commitment chicken soup is too tired to even attempt. I've had pho in Hanoi. I've had pho in Saigon. I've had pho in a strip mall in Garden Grove that I think about every week of my life — a guy named Tuan, tremendous guy, slid the bowl across the counter, watched me take the first sip, and told me my combover looked like a perfect cut of brisket. Best compliment I've ever received. Big strong men cried.

Most people are SCARED of pho. They think it's complicated. They think you need to be in a Vietnamese restaurant at six in the morning watching steam pour out of a stockpot the size of a barrel. Wrong. That's a lie that's been passed down for a generation. The food chemists agree — I had a guy with a PhD walk me through the broth-extraction kinetics one time, took him ninety minutes, completely worth it — and the math is clear: ninety minutes of careful simmering pulls almost everything a twelve-hour simmer pulls. The rest is diminishing returns. Statisticians have run the numbers. Look it up.

Here's the truth. You can make tremendous pho at home in two hours. TWO. Not twelve. Two. And it will taste like the real thing — beefy, fragrant with star anise and cinnamon and clove, clear and clean and golden, with rice noodles and thin-sliced rare brisket that cooks RIGHT IN THE BOWL when the broth hits it, and a mountain of fresh herbs and sprouts and jalapeño and lime. The secret is charring the onion and ginger until they're blackened in spots, toasting the whole spices, and using a mix of marrow bones and brisket so you get gelatin AND meat flavor in the same pot. That's it. That's the entire game. Believe me.

Ingredients

  • 3 lbbeef marrow bones and knuckle bones
  • 1.5 lbbeef brisket (flat cut)(half goes in the broth, half is sliced raw for the bowls)
  • 2large yellow onions(halved, skins on)
  • 1 large knob (4 inches)fresh ginger(halved lengthwise, skin on)
  • 5star anise pods
  • 1 (3 inches)cinnamon stick
  • 6whole cloves
  • 1 tbspcoriander seeds
  • 1 tspfennel seeds
  • 1black cardamom pod(optional but very legit)
  • 1/4 cupfish sauce
  • 1 tbsprock sugar or light brown sugar
  • 1 tbsp, plus more to tastekosher salt
  • 5 quartswater
  • 1 lbdried flat rice noodles (banh pho), 1/4-inch wide
  • 1 bunchfresh Thai basil
  • 1 bunchfresh cilantro
  • 2 cupsbean sprouts
  • 1jalapeño, thinly sliced
  • 2limes, cut into wedges
  • 4scallions, thinly sliced
  • 1/2white onion, very thinly sliced(soak in cold water 10 min to mellow)
  • as desiredsriracha and hoisin sauce (for serving)

Steps

  1. 1

    Place the bones in a large stockpot and cover with cold water. Bring to a rolling boil and boil hard for 5 minutes — this draws out the scum. Drain, rinse the bones under cold water, and scrub the pot clean. This step is what gives you a clear broth.

  2. 2

    Turn a gas burner to high (or use a dry cast iron skillet). Char the halved onions and ginger cut-side down until blackened in spots, about 3-4 minutes per side. Set aside.

  3. 3

    In a dry skillet over medium heat, toast the star anise, cinnamon stick, cloves, coriander seeds, fennel seeds, and black cardamom for 1-2 minutes, until fragrant. Transfer to a small piece of cheesecloth and tie into a bundle (or use a tea infuser ball).

  4. 4

    Return the cleaned bones to the pot. Add half of the brisket (about 12 oz), the charred onion and ginger, the spice bundle, fish sauce, sugar, salt, and 5 quarts of water.

  5. 5

    Bring to a boil, then reduce to a bare simmer. Skim any foam that rises to the surface. Simmer uncovered for 90 minutes, occasionally skimming.

  6. 6

    After 90 minutes, remove the cooked brisket from the broth and submerge it in a bowl of ice water for 10 minutes (this stops it from drying out). Then slice thinly against the grain and set aside.

  7. 7

    Strain the broth through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean pot. Discard the bones, spices, onion, and ginger. Taste the broth and adjust with more fish sauce and salt — it should taste boldly seasoned, since the noodles and toppings will mute it slightly.

  8. 8

    Wrap the remaining raw brisket tightly in plastic and freeze for 20 minutes to firm it up, then slice it as thinly as you possibly can against the grain. Set aside.

  9. 9

    Cook the rice noodles according to package directions, usually 5-7 minutes in boiling water. Drain and rinse briefly under cold water to stop cooking.

  10. 10

    Bring the strained broth back to a hard simmer.

  11. 11

    Assemble the bowls: divide cooked noodles among 6 large bowls. Top each with a few slices of cooked brisket and a layer of raw brisket slices.

  12. 12

    Pour the screaming-hot broth over the meat — this is what cooks the raw brisket. The slices will go from red to pink in seconds.

  13. 13

    Top each bowl with sliced scallions and white onion. Serve immediately with platters of Thai basil, cilantro, bean sprouts, jalapeño, and lime wedges on the side, plus sriracha and hoisin for the table.

  14. 14

    Each person tears herbs into their bowl, adds sprouts and chili to taste, and squeezes lime over the top.

One more thing

Two hours. TWO. And your kitchen smells like the greatest restaurant on earth, and your family is hovering around the stove like cats, and when you pour that screaming-hot broth over the raw brisket and the slices curl and go pink right in front of everybody — that's the magic. That's the moment that justifies the whole afternoon. Pho is the greatest soup ever invented, not even close, chicken soup is weeping quietly in the corner. Make a double batch of broth. Freeze it in quart containers. Future-you will write present-you a thank-you note. Present-you is a hero. Tremendous.

★ QUESTIONS ABOUT THIS ONE? ★

Ask Bigly about Tremendous Pho.

Substitutions, what to serve it with, why other chefs are wrong about it. He's got opinions.

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